There’s a moment at Swami’s — sitting on the bluff above the break, watching the sets roll in — when Encinitas reveals itself completely. Below you, surfers line up on one of the best point breaks in California. Behind you, the gold domes of the Self-Realization Fellowship temple catch the morning light. Across the street, Coast Highway 101 is waking up: a coffee shop pulls up its shutters, a yoga studio opens its doors, a surf shop flips its sign to OPEN.
This is the real surf town. Not the commodified version that Pacific Beach sells, but the one that still lives and breathes saltwater. Encinitas has attracted surfers, yogis, and creative types since the 1960s, and despite the inevitable creep of money and development, the soul persists. The Leucadia stretch of 101 still feels like old California — funky nurseries, vintage shops, and restaurants that open when they feel like it.
I drive up to Encinitas from central San Diego a few times a month, usually for the combination of surf, food, and that intangible 101 vibe. It’s 30 minutes from downtown on I-5 but it feels like a different world — slower, saltier, and unconcerned with trends.
What Makes Encinitas Different?
Encinitas is where San Diego’s surf culture is most genuine. Swami’s isn’t a tourist attraction — it’s a working surf break that some of the best surfers in the world paddle out at. The Self-Realization Fellowship, founded by Paramahansa Yogananda (the Autobiography of a Yogi guy) in 1937, gives the town a spiritual dimension that you won’t find at other beach towns.
Coast Highway 101 through downtown Encinitas and Leucadia is the most charming stretch of road in the county. It’s what all of coastal California’s main streets used to look like before they got corporatized. Independent bookstores, surf shapers, taco shops, vintage stores, and yoga studios — all locally owned, all with personality.
The town also has serious botanical credentials. The San Diego Botanic Garden ($18/adult) occupies 37 acres of themed gardens from tropical to desert. The Leucadia nurseries have supplied California gardens for decades. And the Self-Realization Fellowship gardens — free, clifftop, and overlooking the ocean — are one of the most peaceful spots in the county.
Where Surf Meets Spirit
The golden domes of the Self-Realization Fellowship rise above Swami's break, where surfers chase the same waves that have peeled along this reef for centuries.
Where to Eat in Encinitas?
Swami’s Cafe — The quintessential Encinitas breakfast. Acai bowls ($13-15), hearty egg plates ($12-16), and smoothies that fuel the surf community. Named for the break, packed on weekends. Go before 8am or after 10:30am.
Fish 101 — Fresh fish tacos, poke bowls, and seafood plates ($12-20) in a casual counter-service setting. The fish is never frozen and the menu changes based on what’s caught. Two locations on 101 — both excellent.
Lotus Thai — Best Thai food in North County, possibly in San Diego. The green curry ($15) and pad Thai ($14) are flawless. BYOB — there’s a liquor store nearby. Small space, no reservations. Expect a wait on weekends.
Haggo’s Organic Taco — Organic and sustainable Mexican food. The carne asada burrito ($13) uses grass-fed beef. Vegan options that actually taste good. It’s Encinitas in a restaurant — health-conscious but not pretentious.
Brigantine — Upscale seafood with ocean views from the patio. Swordfish and lobster entrees ($28-45). The happy hour ($6 fish tacos, $2 oysters, weekdays 3:30-5:30pm) is one of the best deals on the coast.
Where to Stay in Encinitas?
Boutique: Encinitas Beach House — Small hotel on 101 within walking distance of Moonlight Beach. Clean modern rooms, surf-town character. $200-400/night.
Value: Leucadia Beach Inn — No-frills motel right on 101 in Leucadia. $150-280/night. Walking distance to restaurants and shops. It’s perfectly Encinitas — unpretentious and functional.
Alternative: Cardiff-by-the-Sea options — The Cardiff neighborhood just south of downtown Encinitas has vacation rentals within walking distance of Cardiff State Beach. Check VRBO for options from $180-350/night.
What to Do in Encinitas?
Is Swami’s Worth Visiting If You Don’t Surf?
Absolutely. The overlook above Swami’s is one of the best wave-watching spots in California. Bring coffee, sit on the bluff, and watch the surfers work the long right-hand point break. The adjacent Self-Realization Fellowship gardens (free, Tuesday-Sunday 9am-5pm) are a must — koi ponds, exotic plants, and ocean views from meditation platforms. Even non-spiritual visitors find the gardens deeply calming.
What About Moonlight Beach?
Moonlight is Encinitas’ main family beach — lifeguards, fire pits, a snack bar, volleyball courts, and gentle waves for swimming. The parking lot is free but fills by 10am in summer. Walk down from 101 if you can’t find a spot. It’s the best all-around beach in North County.
San Diego Botanic Garden?
Thirty-seven acres of themed gardens in Quail Gardens Drive. The bamboo grove is immersive, the children’s garden has a treehouse and discovery stations, and the desert garden showcases incredible succulents. $18/adult. Go on a weekday morning for peace and quiet. It’s a 2-3 hour visit.
Highway 101 Forever
Surf shops, coffee houses, and vintage stores line the old coast highway — Encinitas holds tight to the California that chain stores forgot.
Scott’s Pro Tips
- Getting There: I-5 to Encinitas Blvd exit, then west to 101. The Coaster commuter train from downtown ($5.50) stops at Encinitas station, right on 101 — no car needed for a day trip. The train ride along the coast is scenic in itself.
- Parking: Free street parking on 101 and side streets. Small lots at beach access points fill early. The Moonlight Beach lot is free. Swami's lot is small (8-10 cars) — park on 101 and walk down.
- Surf Etiquette: Swami's is a localized break with experienced surfers. If you're learning, go to Moonlight instead. At Swami's, respect the lineup, don't drop in, and give way to locals. Watching from the bluff is honestly more enjoyable for most visitors.
- Best Time: Late summer and early fall (August-October) for warm water and consistent surf. The Self-Realization Fellowship gardens are best on weekday mornings — quiet and uncrowded. Spring brings wildflowers on the bluffs.
- 101 Walk: Park near Moonlight Beach and walk north on 101 through downtown Encinitas into Leucadia. It's about 2 miles of shops, cafes, and surf-town character. End at a Leucadia restaurant for lunch. The Coaster can bring you back.
- Day Trip Combo: Morning coffee at Swami's Cafe → Self-Realization gardens → walk 101 → lunch at Fish 101 → afternoon at Moonlight Beach → sunset at Swami's overlook. Perfect North County day.
Encinitas doesn’t try to be anything other than what it is: a surf town with soul. Coast Highway 101 preserves the California that the rest of the coast has paved over. The waves at Swami’s have been perfect for a thousand years and nobody’s figured out how to monetize that yet. Come for the surf, the food, and the feeling that you’ve stumbled into somewhere real. You have.